EPP Aluminum Turbo Intercooler Pipes | 2013-2019 Ford Explorer Sport 3.5L EcoBoost
- In stock, ready to ship
- Inventory on the way
THIS KIT COVERS
Post-Turbo Pipes — Turbo to Throttle Body
Turbo Outlet → Intercooler → Throttle Body
Replaces all factory plastic & rubber pipes after the turbos. Includes noisemaker eliminator pipe, all silicone hoses, and all T-bolt clamps.
Looking for pre-turbo pipes (air filter to turbo)? That’s our Cold Air Intake — sold separately.
Replace Your Failing Factory Turbo Pipes
The factory turbo-to-intercooler pipes on the Explorer Sport are plastic and rubber. They crack and leak over time — especially if you're running higher boost with upgraded turbos. EPP aluminum intercooler pipes are a complete replacement for every pipe between your turbos, intercooler, and throttle body.
No performance gains claimed. These pipes are about durability and reliability, not horsepower. They replace factory parts that degrade and fail over time, keeping your boost where it belongs.
Running upgraded turbos? These pipes are practically required. Factory pipes can't handle increased boost levels and will split under pressure.
Fits These Vehicles
- 2013-2019 Ford Explorer Sport 3.5L EcoBoost
Note: The Explorer Sport kit does not include the small front turbo-to-intercooler hose (only needed on SHO/Flex models). Looking for pre-turbo intake piping? That's our Cold Air Intake Kit.
What's in the Kit
- 3 aluminum pipes (throttle body to intercooler, rear turbo to intercooler, front turbo to intercooler)
- All silicone hoses: 3" hump, 2.5" hump, 2" hump, 2" straight, 2"-to-1.5" rear turbo reducer
- All T-bolt clamps: 2x 3", 2x 2.5", 6x 2", 2x 1.5"
- Noisemaker eliminator pipe included (do not order separately)
Options
- Blow-Off Valve: No BOV | Factory BOV Mounts (included) | Tial Q/QR — Black, Red, Blue, Purple, Silver (+$360) | TurboXS RFL (+$240)
- Finish: Raw Aluminum | Crinkle Black (+$100) | Gloss Black (+$100) | Satin Black (+$100) | Red (+$150) | Blue (+$150) | White (+$150)
- Meth Bung (Optional): A threaded port welded into the pipe that allows you to install a methanol injection nozzle from third-party kits (Snow Performance, AEM, Aquamist, etc.). Select the NPT size that matches your nozzle fitting — most kits use 1/8” NPT. Not running methanol injection? Leave this at No Bung.
⚙ INSTALLING AN AFTERMARKET BOV? READ THIS FIRST
This applies if you selected a Tial Q, TurboXS RFL, or are running your own valve. Chose Factory BOV Mounts? Skip this section — your stock valves bolt straight onto our pipes.
1. Your factory bypass valves stay in the car — just not on the pipes.
The transverse 3.5L EcoBoost runs two electronic bypass valves, and the PCM monitors their circuits full-time. Once your aftermarket BOV takes over, the factory valves no longer mount to the charge pipes — but leave at least one plugged into its harness connector and zip-tie it up out of the way of belts and exhaust heat. Unplug them completely and you'll get a check-engine light (P0035 — Bypass Valve Control Circuit) that won't clear until the circuit is restored. Keep one plugged in and there's no code, no tune, no resistor tricks.
2. Your new BOV needs a vacuum signal — and this engine doesn't have one waiting.
Because the factory valves are electronic, there's no existing vacuum line to borrow. Tap a full-time manifold vacuum source behind (downstream of) the throttle body — tee into an intake-manifold vacuum line or use a manifold port — and run it to your BOV's reference port. At idle, manifold vacuum preloads the valve; when you lift off the throttle under boost, that pressure swing snaps it open. Use the manifold tap, not the brake booster line. Keep the line clear of exhaust heat and clamp both ends. (Vacuum fittings not included.)
3. Why the 10 psi spring — it's matched to idle vacuum, not boost.
A 10 psi spring is not a "10 psi of boost" spring. The Tial Q is a pressure-balanced valve: under boost, charge pressure pushes on both sides of the piston at once, so boost level has almost nothing to do with holding the valve shut. The spring's only job is to keep the valve seated against idle vacuum pulling on the diaphragm. These engines idle at roughly 19–20 inHg — right about 10 psi of pull — so the 10 psi spring holds the valve quietly closed at idle and still releases instantly on throttle lift. A lighter spring lets idle vacuum suck the valve open (leaks and rough idle); a heavier one delays venting and brings back the flutter you're trying to eliminate. The 10 psi spring is correct whether you're on stock boost or a tuned setup.
Helpful videos
Install Video
Watch the full install walkthrough: EPP Hot Pipes Installation Video
Lead Times & Policies
- Uncoated pipes: Friday afternoons are our ship day
- Powder coated: 2-3 weeks for powder coat - then ships on Friday
Wash and blow out all pipes before installation. Raw pipes will have machining marks — choose powder coat for a clean finish. Custom made to order. Not eligible for refunds or returns.
